Left about 7:20 while it was still dark. It takes a bit of effort and a good headlamp to find the camino markers. I started walking with Bill and Jim, two brothers, one who was retired and the other was on sabatical. We stopped in Hornillos des Camina for a cafe con leche and an excellent custard tart.
Some of these little bars have the best food. She had just opened for the day and we had to wait for the espresso machine to heat up. While talking with Bill and Jim, I had a burning theological question that got answered very nicely by both of them. We walked the same pace until almost lunch time... two very nice men.
Hontanas where I stopped for a quick lunch was a beautiful village that was undergoing extensive renovations. I was actually quite surprised because a few of the villages in the area were quite run down and it made me wonder why and who was putting up the money.
I had already done 20km and was not sure which village I would stay the night in. San Anton which was 5.6 km further turned out to be a let down. The alberge there had no electicity... So no hot water for a shower which is what I look forward to the most when I stop for the night. On to Castrojeriz, another 3.5km.
My total for the day was 28.8km so I was pretty tired when I got there. As soon as I got into the village there was a Bar/Hostel so I stopped for a glass of wine. I figured I was there early enough that I would be able to find a bed and I really needed to rest my feet.
Yikes... almost at the end of the village and nothing yet! I turned a corner and saw a door that was open so I stepped inside. It seemed small and dark but at this point I would take anything. What a surprise I was in for. This was by far the best alberge so far on the camino. The building was old but totally renovated inside. The owner and his wife were extremely gracious.
The beds were spaced nicely and there were bins for the backpacks and boots.
The best part was that after dinner, he demonstrated what I assumed to be a large press for making liquor. Everything was in Spanish so I got a little lost. He sent a bottle around the table of the plain alcohol and the anise seeds that would later be used to flavour it. Then he pulled out some chilled shot glasses and gave us all a little taste of the finished product. I need to find exactly what it was because it was smooth and delicious!
By the it was getting close to 9:00 and I need my beauty sleep if I am going to attempt another 28km tomorrow.